When September arrives in San Miguel de Allende, the city bursts into color—balconies draped in red, white, and green, papel picado fluttering above cobblestone streets, and plazas echoing with mariachi music. Mexican Independence Day, or Día de la Independencia, is more than a holiday—it’s a national celebration of freedom, identity, and community.
For residents and expats alike, it’s also a beautiful opportunity to gather friends around the table for an evening of culinary heritage and cultural appreciation. Whether you’re attending festivities in El Jardín or hosting a dinner party at home, Chiles en Nogada is the star of the season—and just the beginning of what you can offer your guests.
Though often confused with Cinco de Mayo, Mexico’s true Independence Day takes place on September 16. The date commemorates Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, who in 1810 rang the church bell in nearby Dolores and issued the Grito de Dolores—a fiery call to arms that launched the country’s war for independence from Spain.
Each year, on the night of September 15, the President of Mexico reenacts the Grito from the balcony of the National Palace in Mexico City. Across the country, plazas fill with people shouting “¡Viva México!”, waving flags, and celebrating with music, fireworks, and traditional foods. In San Miguel de Allende, festivities are especially meaningful, given the city’s deep ties to the independence movement.
No dish captures the spirit of Mexican Independence quite like Chiles en Nogada. With its trio of patriotic colors—green chile, white walnut sauce, and red pomegranate seeds—it’s both a symbol of national pride and a masterpiece of seasonal, regional cooking.
Traditional Chiles en Nogada Recipe (Serves 6)
For the Filling:
6 large poblano chiles, 2 tbsp vegetable oil, 1/2 white onion chopped,
2 garlic cloves, minced, 500g (1 lb) ground pork, 1 ripe plantain, diced
1 green apple, peeled and diced, 1 pear, peeled and diced, 1 peach, peeled and diced (optional)
1/4 cup raisins, 1/4 cup chopped almonds, 1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp ground cloves, Salt and pepper to taste
For the Nogada (Walnut Sauce):
° 1 cup shelled walnuts (soaked in hot water and peeled)
° 1/2 cup milk or light cream
° 100g (3.5 oz) queso fresco or cream cheese
° 1 tbsp sugar (to taste)
° 1 tbsp dry sherry or white wine (optional)
° Pinch of cinnamon
° Salt to taste
Garnish:
° Seeds from 1 pomegranate
° Fresh parsley leaves
Instructions:
1. Roast the Chiles: Char poblano chiles over an open flame or under a broiler. Steam in a covered bowl or bag, peel the skins, and carefully remove seeds without tearing the flesh.
2. Make the Filling: Sauté onion and garlic in oil. Add pork and cook until browned. Stir in plantain, apple, pear, raisins, almonds, and spices. Cook until the fruit softens and flavors blend. Let cool.
3. Prepare the Nogada: Blend all sauce ingredients until smooth. Adjust seasoning and consistency with more milk if needed.
4. Assemble: Stuff each chile with the cooled filling. Plate and pour the walnut sauce over top. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and parsley. Serve at room temperature or slightly warm.
Whether you’re dining on a rooftop with sweeping views of San Miguel or hosting friends in a courtyard adorned with papel picado, here’s how to build a full menu around Chiles en Nogada for an unforgettable evening.
Sopes con Frijoles y Queso
Thick corn masa cakes topped with refried beans, salsa verde, crema, and queso fresco. Serve on a board with pickled onions and chili oil.
Esquites (Mexican Street Corn Salad)
A warm corn salad with lime, cotija, and chili powder served in small cups. Perfect for pairing with a mezcal cocktail.
Tinga de Pollo
Shredded chicken simmered in chipotle-tomato sauce. Serve on tostadas with crema and avocado slices.
Tamales de Elote
Sweet corn tamales wrapped in corn husks—soft, comforting, and vegetarian-friendly.
Arroz Rojo (Mexican Red Rice)
A tomato-based rice with carrots and peas. The ideal neutral side to balance strong flavors.
Ensalada de Nopales
Chilled cactus paddle salad with tomatoes, onions, cilantro, and lime. Refreshing and nutrient-rich.
Agua de Jamaica or Tamarindo
Tart, vivid agua frescas served in clay pitchers or colorful glass bottles.
Palomas or Mezcalitas
Signature cocktails with tequila or mezcal, lime juice, and grapefruit soda or fresh juice.
Flan Napolitano
A velvety caramel custard served in slices with whipped cream and a touch of cinnamon.
Buñuelos
Crispy fritters dusted with sugar and served with piloncillo syrup—crunchy, sweet, and festive.
Mexican Hot Chocolate or Café de Olla
Finish the night with spiced drinks brewed with cinnamon and raw sugar.
Decorate with local flowers, handmade tableware, and fresh fruit as centerpieces.
Set out printed menus or little notes describing each dish.
Make a toast during dinner, echoing Hidalgo’s famous cry:
“¡Viva México!”
Mexican Independence Day in San Miguel de Allende is a celebration of history, flavor, and community. Preparing Chiles en Nogada and hosting a dinner party is a beautiful way to immerse yourself in the richness of Mexican culture—and to share it with friends, both local and international.
So this September, whether you’re watching fireworks in El Jardín or raising a glass around your own table, take a moment to reflect on the beauty of this country and the joy of gathering in its honor.
¡Viva México! ¡Y buen provecho!
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